SV Junovia

Most electric motors have "brushes" that rub against another part called a commutator and slowly wear down. They eventually need replacement which is standard maintenance and usually pretty easy to do. In this example, we replace the brushes on an MP 29924 pump that circulates fluid through a hydronic heating system. Tools Philips-head Screwdriver 5/16" Wrench 3/8" Wrench 5/16" Socket Socket Spinner Handle 4" Socket Extension Small needle-nose pliers or flathead screwdriver Procedure Remove the pump and get it on the bench. Remove the two 3/8" nuts on the pump head. Remove the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the pump. Remove the back of the pump where the two screws came out. Pull the housing off the pump while pushing the rubber gasket with wires off. Each of the two wires is connected to a brush. Many pumps use connectors for the wire to the brushes. Slide the new brushes into the holes where the old brushes came out. Re-assemble and re-inst

Disclaimer: Use this information at your own risk! It's not my fault if you damage something, even if it's caused by explicitly following what I've shared here. This may violate your terms of service and/or warranty. To use a Starlink User Terminal on an RV, boat, or other platform where the default power source is not alternating current in the 120+ volts range, any basic inverter will happily feed the included PoE injector and router. However, there are advantages to eliminating the components Starlink provides and switching to something like a Yaosheng injector with a router of your choosing (or even no router at all). This article describes roughly how I did this on our 12-volt-based sailboat. Note:   At the time of this writing there are a handful of user terminals in existence including Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3, and High Performance. This write-up is based on the High Performance terminal but have done the same conversion on a Gen 2 and believe it would also work for Gen 1